Planning Your Car Stereo System-追踪309

.munications Planning Your System This part of the game can be interesting or disappointing depending on what you can do. First I’m going to give you an example system that I believe includes everything you need to have a pretty good system. After that I will show you how to make trade offs and leave out parts that may not be as key to you to keep your system within your budget. I am describing a basic system, to go beyond that is past the scope of this book. Also, you do not have to get everything at once. I put my system together over a few years. With a little planning you can upgrade your system in steps and that way its like getting a brand new system every time you change something instead of getting everything at once! Basic System: This is my opinion only but I feel that a excellent system should start off with a good head unit that either has a CD player and/or is connected to a CD changer. A excellent system sounds best when playing CDs, tapes just do not cut it. Next I think .ponent sets are made with fewer .promises than coaxial speakers. I advice getting a quality midrange/tweeter set for the front. Head units don’t have enough power so you will need an amp to drive the .ponent set. In the rear where you only need some "fill" for ambiance you can manage with less expensive coaxials and set their level lower than the fronts to keep the sound stage in front. A modest (50×4) 4 channel amp is a good choice here for powering the .ponent set up front and the rear speakers. You could use a good 2 channel amp and run the front and back in parallel on the amp but it would harder to adjust the level between them. Midranges sound best when they do not play bass so you will want a 2 way electronic crossover and use the high pass output to drive your 4 channel amp. I did not forget the bass! Most people are happy with a single 10" woofer or a pair of 12"s. Here is a price breakdown of costs in my area. Your prices may be significantly different. Head unit: $300-$500 4 channel amp for highs: $250-$400 2 channel amp for lows: $300-$700 sub(s) (1-10" to 2-12"): $150-$450 enclosure for sub(s): $0 (free air) – $250 (custom) .ponent set: $200-$500 coaxials for rear fill: $100-$400 crossover/equalizer: $100-$500 wiring and accessories: $50-$250 installation: $0 (do it yourself) – $100 (basic) This .es out to $1450-$3950! This does seem steep to spend on a car audio but the things listed are key to have a top notch system. Try to find bargains and cut on things, for example if bass is not important to you, don’t buy the bass related items. Please do not email me asking for re.mendations about particular brands. I have not used all the equipment that is out there. I can give re.mend .ponents I have used, nothing more. When buying equipment try to spend time listening to it before you buy, especially with speakers. Also try to use equipment that is similar to yours when listening in a store. Try not to be suckered by low prices. Typically these deals are too good to be true. Stick with good names with amps. Finally, if you are on a tight budget (aren’t we all?) it works better to upgrade in small steps. The most important thing is to have a car audio system that sounds good to you not someone else. If you are satisfied with just changing the factory speakers and stopping there then just do that. There is a level when that new amp or speaker is not going to make a difference so it is not necessary to always upgrade. There are people who think my system is terrible but it works well enough for me and anything else I do to it would be a minor gain and not worth my trouble. Do not let a salesperson talk you into something you do not need! Good luck! Before you purchase any .ponent, plan your system very carefully. About the Author: 相关的主题文章: